Travel Diary - Provence & Côte d'Azur
- FrancescaBenettiGenolini
- Apr 11, 2019
- 2 min read
Updated: Apr 17, 2019
I have a childhood memory of the enchanted landscapes of Provence, the never ending lavender fields and olive trees, the picturesque villages perched on soft hills and of course, that irresistible smell of fresh baguette that would wake you up every morning…
Since then, everytime I visit the South Coast of France I recall that melancholic sense of
deja vu’ - probably because those very views and places have inspired some of the most famous post-impressionist artists, from Picasso to Van Gogh and Matisse.
Here’s the diary of our latest trip to Provence, from perfume-heaven Grasse to Picasso’s beloved Antibes, getting lost along the way between tiny towns and coastal roads.
Antibes
Driving from the coast, between glittery Cannes and Nice, Antibes might at first sight appear as another of those luxurious destinations of Côte d'Azur -with its multi-millionaire yachts and body-guarded people sipping cocktails at the port’s cafe -, but it won’t take long to discover that the soul of this town is nothing like that.
Just few steps from the Marine Gate starts the walled Old Town, a puzzle of cobble streets, antiquaires and food markets dominated by the tower of the Picasso Museum and liven up by pretty cafes and local shops.
The beauty of Antibes is that one might wander around for hours, and yet wonder if he still missed something; every corner explodes with colours, smell of pastries and perfume of lavender soaps, facades and doors reveal beautiful details and artists studios make you want to find a brush and start painting as well.
Grasse
This lively village perched on the hills North of Nice is famous worldwide for being home of the most famous parfumeries since the 16th century, from iconic Fragonard and Molinard, to smaller laboratories where visitors have the chance to discover historical distilleries as well as creating their own bespoke fragrances.
Saint-Paul de Vence
Another adorable gem, and must visit of any art passionate, is this tiny village hidden less than twenty miles from Nice.
The walls leading to Rue Grande (essentially the only street of the village) are from mid 15th century and unveil an exciting series of alleys and stairways where dozens of lively galleries and artist studios commemorate the town where Marc Chagall is buried.
If you happen to visit, make sure you don’t miss the Fondation Maeght, one of the world’s most important private art foundation and home to a stunning collection of modern art, spanning from Giacometti to Chagall, and designed by spanish architect Josep Lluis Sert, one of Joan Miró closest friends.
Valbonne
Tucked just 6 miles away from Cannes, Valbonne is probably on the less-known-side of Provence but, the proximity to Grasse and Antibes makes a detour to this charming village really worth it.
Nestled between chic golf clubs and beautiful villas, Valbonne is characterised by the lively Place des Arcades, hosting a busy and colourful market every Friday and hosts a variety of typical brasseries and cafes.
The streets are home to beautiful bougainvillea and fascinating doors decorated with emblems, antique dealers and tables belonging to one of the many shops around; a kind of french siesta atmosphere where relaxing and exploring become almost synonyms.
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