Travel Diary - Two weeks around Brazil

FrancescaBenettiGenolini
Aug 27, 2019
6 min read

Updated: Aug 30, 2019

I don’t even remember what I was looking for, but kid, this was much more than I expected!

Brazil is the fifth largest country on earth so yes, I was genuinely arrogant thinking I would come back with a clear picture of the country in my mind; what I got instead is a myriad of different frames, thousand of species, miles and miles of bumpy roads, and yet if you asked me, I would jump on a plane tomorrow and start over again.

Rio de Janeiro

Welcome to the Cidade Maravilhosa!

There is something about Rio, about its indescribable power and deep controversies, that would seduce even the most critical visitor.

Whether it is the stunning view from Corcovado or the samba dancers around Lapa, the dramatic hills breaking into the rainforest , those beguiling miles of urban beach or the colorful favelas perched behind every neighborhood, this is a city that lives at a slow pace, but moves at high intensity rhythms!

A couple of days might be fine to get a taste of the city, but definitely not enough to dig into its soul; we decided to spend our first day visiting the natural wonders of Rio, from sandy beaches to forests and breathtaking viewpoints, in order to dive into the heart of the city and its lovely neighborhoods the next one.

Start your day with a swim in fabulous Ipanema or Copacabana, grab a taxi to the Corcovado mountain and enjoy the world- famous view from Christ the Redeemer statue before heading to Parque Lage for a break in the lovely courtyard cafe.

Get lost in the tropical heaven of Tijuca Forest and end your day with a relaxing drink in Leblon before heading to Mercearia da Praça for nice decor and delicious portuguese fish in Ipanema.

The next day begins with a cultural stroll around the city centre, from Praça Quinze you can easily reach the Imperial Palace, the Old Cathedral and the beautiful Benedict Monastery.

Walk by one the world’s largest graffitiTodos Somos Um by famous artist Kobra and head towards Lapa, vibrant neighbourhood famous for its boheme character and street art.

Pop inside the Royal Portuguese Reading Room to admire its neo-manueline style architecture and visit the CRAB Museum for some interesting brazilian craftsmanship before climbing the instagram-famous Selaron Stairs that take you to Santa Teresa.

Before exploring the trendy boutiques of this charming hilltop district, stop at Bar do Mineiro for a typical feijoada at this iconic bar in the heart of this artsy area.

Continue with a cable car ride to the Pão de Açúcar for the most terrific view of both the bay and the city before enjoying a well deserved caipirinha with sea view at Venga Chiringuito.

Salvador da Bahia

Once the capital of Brazil, Salvador’s old town is an explosion of colour and life, with its regal architecture and decadent beauty a visit to this UNESCO- protected city will hardly leave you un-astonished.

With over 360 churches and its strong african identity Salvador is also home to long sandy beaches, fancy-boheme districts and local artisan’s markets, of which our favourite is surely Mercado Modelo.

Salvador’s nightlife is also very vibrant; thanks to its warm weather and pedestrian alleys the old town becomes a one open-air attraction where Jazz music, drink stands and delicious restaurants are the perfect mix to enjoy a great Bahian evening.

After enjoying a couple of caipirinhas at Largo Terreiro, make sure you try Poro’s delicious menu, sitting at one of their beautiful unmatched tables or on the tiny terrace overlooking the alley.

Jericoacoara

Bohemian wanderers and adrenaline seekers, slow life and a sandy village where time doesn’t seem to pass.

Tucked amongst unpaved sand dunes and palm oasis Jericoacoara is still a well-kept secret, and there is a good reason if it wants to stay so.

There is something frivolous, and incredibly attractive about visiting this place, something that makes you doubt your perfectly organised lifestyle and fancy ambitions, that makes you dream of chasing the wind and forget any worry for the rest of your life.

Four days spent stumbling between late kitesurf sessions, sunset drives on Prea’s beach and frozen beers swinging on handmade hammocks was one of the best ideas we could have, enjoying life five bumpy hours from civilization.

Parnaiba

It might take a good three hours on a 4x4 Jeep from Jeri to reach the famous Parnaiba’s Delta but trust me, the ride is so worth it! Our guide stopped on the way at the insta-friendly Guriú beach (perfect for a picture-break between high swings and pretty decorations) and we jumped on a raft twice to cross Tatajuba river.

The boat excursion itself starts at Ilha Grande in Parnaiba and delves into the astonishing vegetation that the over 1400 km of river create; from gigantic mangroves to monkeys and Iguanas, sandy dunes and the most amazing Revoada dos Guaras: scarlet Ibis gathering just before sunset on a special island creating a breathtaking show of colours and lights.

Barreirinhas and Lençóis Maranhenses

There you go; the long awaited day has finally arrived.

When the Jeep arrives to pick us up we are already weary from a three hour morning drive - and the hour long ride on the sandy forest to reach the Lençóis (literally meaning “bed sheets”) doesn’t seem to make anyone particularly keen on leaving the bar by the pool - but hey, it’s now or never!

The ride is warm and bumpy, and climbing up the dune burns even the last few drops of energy left, but never, ever in my life I would have expected something like this.

No picture does justice to these miles and miles of snow-white dunes and rain-water pools in between; that’s it, no vegetation, no other view at the horizon helping you brain to remember you are still on planet Earth.

Caburé

Our last day of the “emotion route” is dedicated to a boat trip on the Preguiças river, another amazing example of diverse vegetation and wildlife, spanning from palm trees to tropical flowers and colourful leaves.

On the way we first stopped in Vassouras, a small riverfront village home to the Pequenos Lençóis Maranhenses, coconut vendors and funny little monkeys trying to steal everything they can.

After less than an hour of sailing we approached the small fishing village of Caburé, a mosaique of colorful hammocks, bungalows and few restaurants cooking the freshest fresh fish in front of your eyes!

The best surprise came just after lunch, when we decided to walk across the village and ended up on the stunning Caburé beach; the protected and diverse landscapes that we were used to suddenly turn into miles of white sand and expanse of open water, the terrific area where the Preguiças river meets the Atlantic Ocean.

São Luís

Atypical touristic destination, and sadly avoided for its unsafe fame, São Luís appeared to my embalmed eyes as a real gem of vibrancy and passion, a city that states the passing of time and is not afraid of its scars.

Here, between the steamy cobbled alleys and colourful colonial mansions of the old town, people of every age live at their full, playing reggae songs in the streets and sipping on local spirits.

Here, the contrast between the richness of the beautiful, tiled buildings and their crumbling walls seems to embody the spirit of a country that, despite a myriad of problems, risks and battles, shouts its identity head-on, and to the rhythms of Samba!