Palermo - my weekend getaway

"When you come to the South you cry twice - when you arrive and when you leave."

It’s not hard to understand what this means after spending a couple of days around Palermo, the Sicilian capital of astonishing mosaiques, dilapidated baroque palaces and Arabesque architecture. What is even more charming to discover instead, is the controversial and multi voiced reality, the harsh history of richness and abandonment, the coexistence of underworld and lavish empires, a city that hides many scars but is now picking up all the pieces, and doing it in all its genuine Italian spirit.

Palermo is an authentic slice of Sicilian life, so leave any prejudice behind and be prepared to dive in its countless monuments, precious churches, loud markets and mouth-watering pastries; you will struggle to leave in the end.

Architecture

The old part of the city has a very peculiar structure, divided into four historical neighborhoods of Kalsa, Albergheria, Capo and Vucciria by the two perpendicular street Via Vittorio Emanuele and Via Roma; most of the points of interest are along Via Vittorio Emanuele so the easiest way to get a first taste is surely to start from there.

Begin from Piazza Pretoria, famous for its omonimous fountain, and the adjacent church of La Martorana, one of the most charming examples of the multiplicity of styles that characterise the aesthetics of the city.

From there, you can’t miss Piazza Quattro Canti, the Baroque square that divides Palermo’s main neighbourhoods, characterized by four fountains surmounted by statues representing the four seasons, the four Spanish kings of Sicily, and the patronesses of the city.

On the opposite edge of Via Vittorio Emanuele you will encounter one of the most iconic examples of Sicilian architectural grandeur; the construction Cathedral begun in fact during the XXth century but its continuous additions and modifications allow the visitor to discern examples of Norman, Moorish, Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical style.

The roofs of the cathedral are definitely worth a visit as well; on Saturdays they also open by night and offer one of the most picturesque views of the square and the city.

Less than ten minutes away begins the Palace of the Normans; once home to the royal dynasty the palace is now open to the public and hosts temporary exhibitions. Make sure you visit the Cappella Palatina, famous for its mosaiques of unparalleled elegance and fine use of precious marbles.

Other unmissable highlights include the marvellous Cloisters of Santa Caterina, the church of S. Francesco (with the iconic focacceria in the same square), the aristocratic Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri and the astonishing S. Maria dello Spasimo, an unfinished Catholic church in the neighborhood of Kalsa.

Markets

If Palermo’s history is hidden behind lavish buildings and baroque squares, it’s soul is definitely to be found in the streets, between old bookshops and street vendors, and, of course, in the frenetic food markets that seem to hold all the Palermitan’s spirit. Our favourite was the market of Ballarò, the oldest and most characteristic; here loud traders sell anything from marzipan treats to everyday grocery framed by a chaotic mix of languages, smells and colours.

Probably more melancholic, but not less fascinating, is a walk by the other historical market of Palermo: Vucciria. Settled in one of the roughest yet characteristic areas of the city, this market hides a sense of loneliness and life at the same time, between butchers and fishmongers few vibrant stands prepare delicious street food including arancine and crocchè.

Out of town

Well not exactly, but almost.

Not far from the Norman Palace, is another beautiful garden and royal palace known as Castello della Zisa. Clearly inspired by Moorish architecture, the castle was built for king William I and peers out onto the geometrical garden characterized by a peculiar system of water pools and typical Mediterranean vegetation.

On the opposite side of the city, a short walk from the commercial port is the Botanical Garden of Palermo.

A dreamy garden and center of scientific research built at the end of the XVIIIth century; wondering for a couple of hours between its rare species of flora and fauna was one of the most relaxing getaways from the frenetic city center.

Yes, sounds all very pretty, but there’s more.

Less than half an hour from the city center lives the heart of Palermitans summer days and warmer nights: Mondello.

This small and no frills seaside resort is a real paradise of soft pale sand and clear turquoise water; bustling between colorful umbrellas, sunbeds and tiny fish restaurants, one might as well think to have ended up in a modern, hilarious and astonishingly charming reinterpretation of Fellini’s Dolce Vita.

Eat, eat, eat

Should I even say that? Sicily if easily everyone’s food heaven, and, what’s best is that its culinary tradition varies widely from city to city. Treat yourself with a cannolo espresso in the beautiful I segreti del Chiostro, grab a slice of sfincione at the iconic Antica focacceria S. Francesco or typical street food around Ballaro’s market.

As the light gets dim, head to busy Botteghe Colletti for a glass of local Nero d’Avola before indulging in a life changing swordfish pasta at the iconic Ferro di Cavallo or enjoying the typical tasting menu at Osteria Armetta for a real Sicilian feast.