Travel Diary - Naples
- FrancescaBenettiGenolini
- May 1, 2019
- 3 min read
Naples is chaos, shouts and horns, it’s smell of bread and friendly smiles in the streets, it’s crucifixes, prays and swears echoing around the tiny alleys of Quartieri Spagnoli, it’s passion, fear and blood all at the same time.
Naples loves you, if you love it back, but doesn’t forget, and rarely forgive.
Napes is everything, and the opposite of everything, and yet you will hardly leave without leaving behind a part of your heart, and taking with you a part of its soul.
Here’s how I fell in love with this city and what you can’t miss if you happen to visit.
The Centre
The easiest way to taste the spirit of Naples is to start down Via San Gregorio Armeno, with its iconic craftsmen selling nativities and chilli peppers, from where the city unfolds in a series of alleys and squares following the original grid of eighteen Cardini and three main Decumani (perpendicular to each other), leading the visitor to unexpected treasures of art and architecture.
One of the best examples is San Gennaro’s Cathedral, a stunning example of Gothic architecture famous for being home to the patron relics (“Tesoro di San Gennaro”).
Just few minutes away are two of my favourite destinations: Cappella Sansevero, with the breath-taking Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino, and the precious Cloister Garden of Santa Chiara, decorated with frescoes and colorful majolica tiles this hidden gem is part of the adjacent Convent and represents one unique example of Neapolitan Rococo style.
It won’t take long to understand that this city requires all five senses to be experienced, and trust me, that unmistakable smell of fresh basil and oven baked dough will easily walk you straight towards Via dei Tribunali, the iconic street home to the oldest and best pizzerie in town (our favourite has to be Gino Sorbillo but it’s almost impossible to go wrong anywhere around).
Once you are there, make sure you don’t miss a visit to Napoli Sotterranea, a unique tour to discover the heart of Naples and its rich historical background, from Greek Aqueducts to remains of a Roman theatre, all set forty meters below ground level.
As soon as one leaves the City Centre, everything will appear surprisingly calm, almost uncomfortably quiet and bon-ton compared to the chaotic centre, but it surely won’t take long to appreciate the hidden gems of these areas, from elegant shops in Chiaia to the grim experience of the Fontanelle Cemetery, an ossuary located in a tuff cave in Materdei famous for its unique “cult of the dead” that Neapolitan women developed since the XIXth century, praying and assisting the lost souls in reaching heaven.
Castel Sant’Elmo and Mergellina
Taking the tube from Toledo, one of the world’s most beautiful stations (designed by Spanish archistars Oscar Tusquets Blanca and part of the “Art Stations Programme”), you can quickly reach the beautiful Vomero, a green and quiet district perched on a gentle hill and dotted with dehors cafe and gelaterie.
The best way to enjoy the view over the city and stunning Gulf is visiting Castel Sant’Elmo, a medieval fortress currently used as a museum and exhibition space.
Another lovely area to explore is surely Mergellina, located at the foot of residential Posillipo and originally a small fishing village, this part of Naples offers the most romantic view of Castel dell’Ovo (with the Vesuvio behind) and is home to elegant restaurants and cafes like the famous Chalet Ciro.
Castel Dell’Ovo and Harbour
One can not think of the Gulf of Naples, and of its unique coastal views, without picturing the iconic Castel dell’Ovo;
perched on the former island of Megaride (which then became a peninsula) this castle is the oldest standing fortification of the city (First century BC) and has been home to kings and emperors from the Roman empire.
The surrounding area later developed as a picturesque fishing village Borgo Marinaro and is now a popular destinations for its nice restaurants and beautiful view over the city.
This area attracts thousand of visitors especially in the warm season, when they can relax with a walk around the harbour and enjoy a glass of wine while admiring the sun setting over Vesuvio.
Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte
I must say, this is above all what I regret the most of having missed during my visit to Naples..
Located in the Bourbon palace of Capodimonte, the museum hosts some of the biggest treasures of painting and decorative art, from Michelangelo to Caravaggio and Mantegna, not to mention the stunning architecture itself: originally the hunting reserve of king Carl of Bourbon, this palace has been home to the most important dynasties of the time, from Bonaparte’s to Savoia’s.
Sumptuous spaces like the salottino di porcellana (entirely covered in porcelain) and the neoclassic Salone delle Feste create a fine atmosphere that makes you dream you were born four centuries ago (as a member of the Bourbons of course!).
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